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Daily Dining News: More on Enotria's Excellence

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Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson gave Enotria a glowing review over the weekend, but there wasn't enough space in the newspaper for him to adequately gush about the restaurant. So he took to the paper's appetizers blog.

While my review sought to capture the essence of the tremendous food and wine experiences available at Enotria, I was unable to go into as much detail as many of our serious foodie readers would like. In the blog format, we're not killing trees and we're not as confined by space limitations. So here goes. By the way, the menu will soon be changing, with a wider range of options, courses and price points.

First, we'll start with some of elements of Bruich's finest dishes and his thoughts on creating a menu that is at once challenging and accommodating, accessible yet adventurous. Some of his dishes, like the pork belly, started out as one thing and, when that didn't work, became something else. In fact, Bruich says the original idea for the pork belly dish with pickled peaches was to do something highlighting a bacon custard, only to realize it didn't have enough substance to hold up as a full course in a dinner setting. So he went from there....

Then there's Edward Martinez, the pastry chef who recently left a starring role at Hawks in Granite Bay to join Bruich at Enotria and start dreaming up some impressively cutting-edge creations. He's also handling the bread program, which features individual-sized boules of pretzel bread, pain au lait and bacon challah. The breads remind me of what they're doing at Michelin one-star Sons & Daughters in San Francisco, only there the breads are trickled out one at a time throughout dinner, almost like a playful interlude between courses. At Enotria, the breads are served all at once in an attractive metal holder. I was curious about the pretzel bread. Turns out, Martinez is poaching the dough in beer. Right now, it's the high-end (and pricy) Allagash, "but I'm still trying to figure out the right beer. I want a more malty flavor," Martinez said.

Read the entire post in the Sac Bee.

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