Red Rabbit celebrats its first anniversary on Saturday. I loved its concept and execution so much that that's where we went for Valentine's Day dinner last year.

A year later, Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson takes a look at the maturing restaurant.

The food, the drinks, the service, the décor, the energy in the room, even the name (a nod to the giant red rabbit art installation at the airport) – it all works. And there's room for improvement.

The braised lamb shank ($22.50) with creamy white polenta and braised Swiss chard was an excellent example of good ingredients and skillful execution. The thick, crispy square of pork belly ($9) with a lemon caper sauce was a tender, tasty, rustic, comforting appetizer. The eye-catching "winter is coming caprese salad" ($7), featuring slabs of tender golden beets instead of tomato slices, along with croquettes of warmed goat cheese, was clever and beautifully done, even if the pickled red onions threatened to overwhelm the dish with their acidity...

The food here does indeed have an edge. It's creative and thoughtful. It's all over the map with flavors, textures and ingredients. Service is solid and sometimes well above average. The menu features several winners and a few clunkers.

Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.

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