Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson pays a visit to Hock Farm, the restaurant that replaced Spataro at 14th & L, and gives us his first impression.

The bites were a disappointment. The three tiny deviled eggs were heavy on a mustardy flavor, overly tart and jarring to the palate. Salmon croquettes were perfectly fried but unexceptional in flavor. The beet salad was light on the beets, which were firm and tasty, and heavy on the lettuce. The salmon and asparagus was very good, including creamy and refined mashed potatoes with green garlic. The tender and juicy roasted half chicken came with delicious wilted dandelion greens. The half-pound burgers are served with buns from Paragary's Bakery. From their excellent pizzas, try the basic but tasty Margherita, with its tender, chewy and delicious thin crust...

Despite that less-than- happy ending, repurposed and re-positioned Hock Farm is staking a claim as a serious player in the new and more competitive local dining scene. It will have to do more – and do it better – to be taken seriously alongside farm-to-table stalwarts like Ella, Mulvaney's, Magpie Cafe, The Waterboy and newcomer Hook & Ladder.

Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.

Click here for more posts about Hock Farm, including my Instant Reaction.

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