Dining News: Roseville's Paul Martin's American Bistro 'Uninspired & Ordinary'
April 21, 2013
Paul Martin's American Bistro was started by the same company that started Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar and P.F. Chang's China Bistro. I think it's fair to say both concepts are very successful and aim to please diners without taking any risks.
Does Paul Martin's American Bistro follow the same philosphy? Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson gives us his review.
On plate after plate, we encountered mainstream mediocrity at premium prices and packaged as something special, with our server interrupting us repeatedly to remind us how delicious everything was. They made it sound like the second coming of Bouchon instead of what it seemed to be – an Applebee's with better adjectives.
I ordered the flank steak. I'm guessing the marinade was hand-whisked. I ordered the steak medium-rare, because I wanted to reveal myself as a serious foodie. Nevertheless, our server went on to talk to me like I was 11. "OK, medium-rare, which is warm and dark pink toward the center, right?" After serving the steak, she returned within seconds to ask me how everything was tasting. It was clear I had yet to take a bite, so she answered for me. "Delicious..."
The meals at Paul Martin's were not a disaster. They were simply uninspired and ordinary, over-sold and overpriced. Its biggest mistake is serving OK food in a category where the real bistros are serving superior food – house-made, with passion, and without so much hype.
Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.
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