Broderick, a West Sac restaurant and bar by the owners of the Wicked 'Wich food truck, gets a rave review from the Sac Bee restaurant critic.

What's fascinating about Broderick is how it manages to pull all of its disparate, desperate and offbeat elements together, shake them up, spin them around and turn them into something that really works.

Simply put, the hamburgers are over-the-top, massive and often amazing, including the "Johnny Cash" with a thick and perfectly cooked pepper-crusted beef patty, melted cheddar oozing everywhere, thick strips of applewood-smoked bacon, peppers pickled in-house, fried onions and a special barbecue sauce whipped up in the kitchen.

The sandwiches, too, are top-notch – and over-the-top, including the "Desperado," which really should come with a warning label, a bib, a pillow and a recliner for the inevitable food coma after you wolf down the following: tender slices of marinated flank steak, grilled mushrooms, caramelized onions and a superbly decadent black pepper gorgonzola cheese sauce, some of which will probably end up all over your shirt. That and a side of fries – maybe smothered with chili!

Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.

When I visited the place back in December 2012, I sampled the Bahn Mi Fries and recommended it to Cowtown Eats readers. The Sac Bee's reviewer found the flavor for that dish to be "outstanding."

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