Dining News: 'One of the Great Up-and-Coming Restaurants'
August 14, 2013
In this week's review, Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson goes off the beaten path and finds what he calls "one of the great up-and-coming restaurants in Northern California."
This is where I found myself, 75 minutes from home, stepping into a large, rustic-meets-elegant room on the main drag of Truckee, a quaint mountain town with little reputation for culinary wizardry. I was looking at a menu so enterprising – eclectic, forceful, rife with technique both classical and cutting edge – that the results would have to be a magnificent achievement or one very major mess...
A selection of entrees that includes a Wagyu rib-eye with locally foraged mushrooms, a strip loin of lamb with crispy eggplant, and on and on – pork belly, black cod, wild boar, deep-fried rabbit and suckling pig. There’s cauliflower and sea urchin, roasted bone marrow with ultra-rich brioche toasts.
A wine list curated for balance in price point, nuance and pairings potential. A beer selection that could rival some serious craft beer bottle shops.
Even the coffee program – yes, coffee — is meticulously thought out and executed with great care.
This is Restaurant Trokay. It’s the dream – and the life – for young powerhouse couple John and Nyna Weatherson, who have come out of nowhere to stake a claim as one of the great up-and-coming restaurants in Northern California.
Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.
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