Dining News: 'Dramatic, Impressive Cuisine' Under New Chef at The Kitchen
November 12, 2013
Earlier this year, John Griffiths replaced Noah Zonca (who left to eventually open Capital Dime) as the chef and face at The Kitchen. So how's he doing? Sac Mag's Kira O'Donnell has the details.
I found it to be a quieter, gentler-on-the-senses evening. The demonstration-style dinner rolls out much the same way it always has: visually stunning, diner-inclusive and packed with colorful ingredient information. But there is a respectful emphasis on the food and minimal glitzy theatrics. Griffiths connects nicely with his guests, guiding them thoughtfully through his menu, but his softer demeanor and passionate interest in his dishes, mixed with a dry, clever wit, makes for a more subtle dining experience...
Swapping chefs at an established, high-profile restaurant can be a dicey affair. Selland admits that some longtime customers of The Kitchen are grumbling about the new, toned-down ambience. But I would encourage anyone interested in sophisticated farm-to-fork dining to visit and sample the dramatic, impressive cuisine that Griffiths and his talented staff are plating up. I think you’ll find that the changing of the guard at this Sacramento restaurant institution has been a successful one.
Read the entire story in Sac Mag.
I paid my first visit to The Kitchen just as John Griffiths became chef. My thoughts on it are coming in a future post.
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