Dining News: Sac Bee's Take on Mother
January 23, 2014
Mother, the least healthy vegetarian restaurant I've ever eaten at but conversly the most delicious vegetarian restaurant I've eaten at, opened on Monday to lines out the door. Here's the Sac Bee restaurant critic's piece on the K Street establishment.
If anything, this is a soul food restaurant, and this menu has suddenly become a template for what we are all about as a city – it’s very Sacramento and very Thiemann, this homegrown kid who went off to hone his craft and figure out who he was as a chef, only to return to Sacramento to put down deep roots, celebrate the bounty of our local growers and purveyors, and, frankly, start hurling massive flavor bombs across the bow.
It is not his way to taunt or intimidate, but Thiemann and his staff should be making every chef in town either frightened or inspired. The best restaurants won’t be content to stay the same. They will want to see what Mother is doing, what Thiemann is all about, see how the vegetables are so very tasty and exciting and hearty and refined, and up their games, too. Thiemann has brought in a young chef, Matt Masera, not so he can bark orders and get the kid to obey. He recruited Masera from San Francisco because he wants the guy to push him, challenge him, make him a better chef and make Mother a better restaurant.
Read the entire story in the Sac Bee.
Also, watch Good Day Sac's segment above.
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