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Dining News: Mother is 'Excitingly Unique'


After his gave a glowing first impression of the place in January ("Thiemann and his staff should be making every chef in town either frightened or inspired."), Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson has been eating at Mother early and often. Followers of him on twitter were treated with a constant stream of pictures from his meals there.

In this week, he reveals why he went there so often.

The more I ate, the more convinced I became that this place was excitingly unique. I couldn’t stay away, captivated at one point by the flavors of the collard greens, cooked without a hint of bitterness (and absent the obligatory pork fat). It was another Southern soul-food staple taken to new heights in California’s capital.

But I knew this review, in time, would be challenging. I couldn’t be anonymous and blend in as a regular customer. The approach would have to be different. But how? I decided to continue visiting until an idea revealed itself.

Since the chef had recognized him (as described earlier in the piece), Robertson eventually eats 100 dishes specially prepared for him by the chef. He ends the review simply with, "I recommend this restaurant."

Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.

As an aside, the other time I remember Robertson being recognized in the process of doing a review was an Oct. 2012 review of Enotria.

More News:

Sacramento gelato artisan will go bananas at international competition - The co-founder of midtown Sacramento’s Devine Gelateria & Cafe wants nothing less than world domination, but hey, she’s willing to start with Austin, Texas. Elizabeth McCleary is flying to the Lone Star State’s capital on Tuesday to compete in the first round of the Gelato World Tour, which will culminate in a showdown in Rimini, Italy, in September. McCleary will be one of 16 contestants in Austin seeking to be crowned the world’s best gelato artisan. Only three will advance to the grand final, joining other first-round qualifiers from Dubai, Shanghai and other world cities. Cathie Anderson in the Sac Bee.

Sacramento restaurant makes top brunch spot list - OpenTable’s newest list of restaurants is a top 100 of the best places for brunch, and a Sacramento spot is on it. Mama Kim Eats, at 1616 Del Paso Blvd., which specializes in Creole, Cajun and Southern food, is the only Sacramento-area restaurant to make the list. Melissa Wiese in Sac Biz Journal.

Change is brewing - If you didn't notice already from all the construction work, big changes are underway on 16th Street near Fremont Park. Two of the projects involve mixed-use buildings that feature restaurants. Jonathan Mendick in Sac News & Review.

Philanthropic Casa Garden restaurant turns 40 - Casa Garden restaurant isn’t as trendy as, say, LowBrau or Red Rabbit, nor does it offer as many dishes as Ruchi or Venita Rhea’s. It does, however, serve a larger cause and has history on its side. It’s celebrating its 40th anniversay next week, a remarkable feat of longevity considering most restaurants close within a year of opening. Casa Garden is operated by Los Ninos Service League, an auxiliary of the 143-year-old Sacramento Children’s Home. The restaurant is a fundraising program that has sent more than $2.7 million to the home, which shelters kids from abusive environments and provides family services. We spoke with restaurant manager Joan Simmons, on site for 19 years. Allein Pierleoni in the Sac Bee.

Friday Food: Mother - A new vegetarian restaurant in Sacramento is getting rave reviews from vegetarians and meat eaters alike. It's "Mother" restaurant on K Street. Kitty O'Neal on KFBK.


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