Dining News: Mother is 'Excitingly Unique'
May 01, 2014
After his gave a glowing first impression of the place in January ("Thiemann and his staff should be making every chef in town either frightened or inspired."), Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson has been eating at Mother early and often. Followers of him on twitter were treated with a constant stream of pictures from his meals there.
In this week, he reveals why he went there so often.
The more I ate, the more convinced I became that this place was excitingly unique. I couldn’t stay away, captivated at one point by the flavors of the collard greens, cooked without a hint of bitterness (and absent the obligatory pork fat). It was another Southern soul-food staple taken to new heights in California’s capital.
But I knew this review, in time, would be challenging. I couldn’t be anonymous and blend in as a regular customer. The approach would have to be different. But how? I decided to continue visiting until an idea revealed itself.
Since the chef had recognized him (as described earlier in the piece), Robertson eventually eats 100 dishes specially prepared for him by the chef. He ends the review simply with, "I recommend this restaurant."
Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.
As an aside, the other time I remember Robertson being recognized in the process of doing a review was an Oct. 2012 review of Enotria.
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