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Localis

There seems to be a critical consensus - there's something special going on with the food at Localis. This time, the Sac Bee's Carla Meyer gives her thoughts:

I’ve tried so much game at Localis during its four months in business that I expected my skin to erupt into camouflage. And although all of it was good, none stands out as much as the deceptively simple “farm plate” crudité dinner starter.

Ingredients vary, but on our visits, the farm plate contained turnip, radish, apple, pomegranate seeds and a few types of carrot and beet. Variations in texture and crunch levels, and pickling elements (including a rice vinegar-forward mix and one with red-wine vinegar and peppercorn) individuate the vegetables and fruits to such a degree that each bite differs from the next.

With this dish and others, Barnum carefully balances sweetness, salt, brightness and acidity for ultimate palate pleasure. The only element missing, out of many Barnum creations we tried, was heat. But heat is easy. The balances Barnum achieves are hard. And his flavors work altogether or in pairs.

Meyer did find fault in some of the non-food items at the restaurant, including their choice of music and their uncomfortable, at times, dining area.

Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.

Previously, the Sac News & Review's Ann Martin Rolke said their "food is worth seeking out."

Localis can be found at 2031 S St. and online at http://www.localissacramento.com/.

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