Dining News: Frank Fats 'Consistently Delicious & Eminently Accessible'
April 16, 2013
The James Beard awards are to the food world what the Oscars are to movies. It's a huge honor just to be nominated, let alone actually win.
Sacramento mainstay Frank Fat's will receive a Lifetime Achievement award in the America's Classics category in early May. Sac Bee restaurant critic Blair Anthony Robertson went to see if Frank Fat's is "a restaurant icon … or a restaurant dinosaur."
During our recent visits, it didn't take long to arrive at an answer. Frank Fat's may not be as cool as a place like Hook & Ladder or Red Rabbit, as elegant as Ella, as influential as Mulvaney's or as adored as Biba.
But it continues to stand tall for a reason. The food is consistently delicious and eminently accessible, with flavors and ingredients that straddle the line between American and Chinese.
Who cares where bacon-wrapped scallops come from or whether they get the foodie stamp of approval for being authentic? At Frank Fat's, they're pretty darn amazing – tender, delicate, meaty, salty and just a tad smoky going down. And they pair nicely with a lychee martini, a nice stiff mai tai cocktail or something from the abbreviated but nicely balanced wine list.
The salt-and-pepper calamari is light and crisp and mildly delicious without being greasy or chewy. And Fat's brandy fried chicken is right up there with the best fried chicken in town – perfectly tender, golden brown, crispy, tasty – and lots of it.
Know what makes all this food taste even better? They treat you like a million bucks. Frank Fat's has been a refuge for movers and shakers practically since the day it opened on L Street. Every governor since has eaten there. Celebrities often drop by. Deals get done.
Read the entire review in the Sac Bee.
To my taste buds, Robertson's pretty much nailed his assessment. While Frank Fat's may not be as authentic as the dim sum Asian Pearl 2009 on Stockton Blvd. or CF Cheng in Natomas, that doesn't mean that it's still not good and worth a visit once in a while.
Click here for more posts about the Fat Family's restaurants.
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